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Functions Of Cosmetic Peptides
Aug 10, 2018

The functions of Cosmetic peptides 

Peptides (peptides) play an important role in the natural aging and care of skin, such as cell proliferation, cell migration, inflammatory response, angiogenesis, pigment formation, protein synthesis and regulation. With the further understanding of the microstructure and mechanism of our own skin, polypeptides of various structures are introduced into skin care to achieve various functions, such as promoting the generation of collagen, anti-free radical oxidation, anti-inflammation repair, anti-edema, promoting hair regeneration, whitening, breast enlargement and reducing weight, etc. The global market share of cosmetic peptides is expected to exceed $30 billion in 2016.

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More and more effective bioactive polypeptides have been applied into the cosmetics industry. The eternal and most important theme of skin care is anti-wrinkle and anti-aging. Currently, the function of cosmetic peptides mainly focuses on this aspect.

Cosmetic peptide can be divided into the following categories according to its mechanism of action:

Signal class

Function: promotes collagen synthesis and inhibits collagen decomposition

Signal polypeptides can promote the synthesis of matrix proteins, especially collagen. It also increases production of elastin, hyaluronic acid, glycosaminoglycan and fibronectin. This peptide promotes collagen synthesis by increasing the activity of the matrix cells, making the skin look more elastic and youthful.

Such as:

Palmityl tripeptide -5 - induces collagen synthesis via TGF- scaffold

neurotransmitters

Function: inhibits signal transduction of neuromuscular junction

This kind of polypeptide is a botulinum toxin mechanism, by inhibiting the synthesis of the SNARE receptor, inhibiting the excessive release of catecholamine and acetylcholine in the skin, partially blocking the nerve to transmit muscle contraction information, making the facial muscles relax and smooth the fine lines.

Such as:

Dipeptide venom - inhibits acetylcholine receptor release

Load class

Function: provide cofactor for enzyme, and participate in the formation of collagen or elastin

In human plasma, tripeptide gly-l-his-lys (GHK) and divalent copper ions have a strong affinity and can spontaneously form complex copper peptides (or ghk-cu). Copper ions are an important ingredient in wound healing and many enzymatic processes. Studies have shown that ghk-cu can promote the growth, division and differentiation of nerve cells and immune-related cells, and can effectively promote wound healing and hair generation.

Such as:

Cupric peptide - promotes wound healing

Anti-carbonylation and anti-free radical oxidation

Function: protect genes and proteins from oxidative damage and inhibit inflammatory response

Anti-carbonylated cosmetic peptides can protect collagen from damage and cross-linking by active carbonyls, while some anti-carbonylated cosmetic peptides can scavenge free radicals. Anti - inflammatory peptides inhibit the inflammatory response, make the skin anti - droop, promote skin firmness.

Such as:

Carnosine - a water-soluble, endogenous dipeptide that fights carbonylation and free radical oxidation

Enzyme inhibitors

Function: inhibits enzyme, helps slow down aging

Usually obtained from natural sources, such as soy, rice or silk, these peptides directly or indirectly inhibit senile enzymes

Such as:

Acetyltetrapeptide-5 - improves blood circulation, eye edema and microcirculation by inhibiting the conversion of angiotensin I to angiotensin II